Mushroom-Based Leather: The Next Sustainable Fashion Material

Plant-based leathers have the potential to revolutionize the fashion industry. Now, MycoWorks, a California-based biotech company, has developed an innovative and environmentally friendly, vegan leather derived from fungi. This new leather is produced from mycelium, the root structure threads of mushrooms, and has the same texture and appearance as animal leather, as reported by Jess Cartner-Morley for The Guardian.

While the material is mushroom-based, MycoWorks creates its rigid material using engineered mycelium cells. As the cells grow into 3-D structures, they become densely intertwined, eventually forming a tough material called Fine Mycellium which has the strength, durability, and performance of traditional leather. This results in a material that resembles traditional leather both in look and feel, making it a superior alternative to other mushroom-based vegan leathers.

Most mushroom leather is made from a compressed solid foam that mycelium forms naturally, but without engineering, it lacks the same look and feel as other synthetic leathers.

Fine Mycelium can be quickly grown in custom-designed trays, allowing for minimal waste and precise control over its specifications. These trays can be designed to fit a designer's exact specifications, eliminating any waste from excess scraps. After the Fine Mycelium is harvested, it is tanned and finished to look and feel like animal leather's unique grain. Fine Mycelium can be quickly grown in custom-designed trays, allowing for minimal waste and precise control over its specifications.

Fine Mycelium, produced by MycoWorks, has already made a high-fashion debut, as seen in the March 2021 unveiling of the Victoria bag by luxury brand Hermés. This demonstrates the increasing popularity and recognition of vegan leather in the fashion industry. Other companies, such as Adidas, have also adopted this material in their products, with their Mylo-made Stan Smith shoes being a notable example.

Other plant-based leathers have already been in the works. Material companies Ananas Anam create natural textiles called Piñatex from waste pineapple leaf fiber, and Adriano Di Marti invented Deserttex, a soft leather-like material derived from cactuses that can be used in the fashion and furniture industries.